This fantastic mountain biking adventure in Nepal follows the route of one of the undisputed great trails of the world, the Annapurna Circuit, into the heart of some of the most sensational mountain scenery on the planet. With new sections of 'jeep road' through the Marsyangdi and Kali Gandaki valleys, the trail is becoming an increasingly attractive proposition for intrepid mountain bikers. Climbing through a series of dramatic panoramic zones, this is an undeniably tough trip, with long sections of carrying and pushing at altitude.
However, there is also a lot of whooping and hollering to be had on some stretches of amazing riding, with fast dirt trails and rocky singletrack around a glorious centrepiece of the Annapurnas. This is also a great cultural journey as we encounter the crinkled, friendly smiles of remote Nepali and Buddhist people and gain an insight into their ‘lives in the sky'. Accompanied by an expert Nepalese biking guide, the group will make use of lodges throughout the circuit and all baggage will be portered between overnight stops. After an acclimatisation day at Manang and a further 2-day approach to High Camp, the stamina-sapping climb to the Thorung La (5416m) will take everyone's breath away - as much for the gob-smacking views as for the lack of oxygen! This is followed by an amazing 1600 metres descent to the collection of temples at Muktinath, one of the holiest sites in Nepal. From here, it's pretty much all rideable and mostly downhill as we blast through the world's deepest gorge, the Kali Gandaki on a wild, rugged jeep track with hulks of mountains towering either side of us. Our journey comes to an end at the surfaced road in Beni, where we can kiss the tarmac and celebrate a unique and amazing achievement, with memories which will stay with us for a lifetime!
With porter support throughout, you're free to ride this classic Nepal Himalaya mountain bike circuit with your usual day-ride gear, plus extra warmwear at times. The Annapurna Circuit provides a real challenge for fit mountain bikers. Once we are dropped off at Besisahar, we have no vehicle support until we reach Beni, 11 days later. Porters will carry our main baggage and, because of our need to proceed quite slowly (on account of the uphill nature of the route and the increasing altitude) they will be able to keep up with the bikers until we reach Muktinath on the west side of the Thorung La. Beyond this point, we can cover greater daily distances and the baggage transfer will be arranged by vehicle. En route to the Thorung La, after the first 2 days on the jeep road, we will encounter all kinds of challenging trail conditions and it is important to realise that parts of it will be either too steep or too technical to ride. There is good riding on this part of the route, but it tends to come in relatively short sections. Once we have crossed this high pass, it's mostly downhill and all rideable, with an initial long and technical descent, then a lot of great riding on broad trails and jeep tracks. We must stress that apart from the emergency tool kit and clothes, that you would take on any mountain day ride, plus water and trail food, you will not be required to carry any luggage. This challenging mountain bike holiday has become just a little easier on account of the encroachment of the jeep roads, but is still a realistic proposition only for fit and experienced bikers.
ITINERARY
Day 1:
Meet at the group hotel in Kathmandu. Transfers from Kathmandu Airport are provided.
Meet at the group hotel in Kathmandu. Airport transfers are provided. We strongly advise that you plan your journey to arrive in Kathmandu by lunchtime. This will allow you to assemble your bike and check everything is in full working order ahead of our journey. Kathmandu has a good choice of bike shops and today will be the last chance we have to make last-minute purchases or adjustments. Your biking guide will be on hand to help you with this. We will leave our bike boxes and bike bags in storage in Kathmandu. KE Land Only package services begin with the evening meal.
Day 2:
Drive west on the Pokhara road, then north to Besishar (823m) in the valley of the Marsyangdi River.
We have an early breakfast in preparation for a long drive of around 6-7 hours to the starting point for our cycling epic at the town of Besisahar (823m). Driving westwards, we follow the busy Pokhara road, stopping at a roadside restaurant for lunch en route. At the small town of Dumre, beside the Marsyangdi River, we turn north on a quieter road to arrive at our overnight lodge accommodation in Besisahar, headquarters of the Lamjung district and official starting point for the Annapurna Circuit. We have the chance to check over our bikes again, before sitting down to our evening meal.
Day 3:
Cycle on a jeep road above the river, through Syange, Bhulbhule and Ngadi, to Chamje (1410m).
Today is a relatively easy day and gives us an excellent opportunity to find our legs, get into a rhythm and become acquainted with the terrain and new surroundings. Following the lush sub-tropical valley of the Marsyangdi River, we climb gently on a jeep road, passing through villages of Bhulbhule and Ngadi. At the tiny Gurung village of Khudi, we have great views of mighty Himalchuli (7893m). As we climb to our overnight lodge at Chamje (1410m) we can look across to cascading waterfalls, picturesque terraced rice fields and a number of small villages that line the course of the dramatic Marsyangdi River.
Day 4:
Follow a cliff-side jeep road, with views of waterfalls and villages, to Dharapani (1860m).
What was until recently a tough section of the circuit for mountain bikers, on steep and rocky village paths, is now much less technical, with the completion of the jeep road. It's still quite a tough day, however, with the terrain rocky and steep at times and the altitude just starting to make itself felt. For the first part of the day, the road is spectacularly cut into cliffs. The lush vegetation from the previous day starts to give way to sparser woodland, typical of higher elevations. There are more amazing waterfalls, as we reach a viewpoint above the village of Tal, the most southerly village of the Manang district. On our route today, we see increasing numbers of chortens and prayer flags, which are testimony to the fact that we are now in a Buddhist area. We reach our lodge in Dharapani (1860m) in the afternoon and have time to admire the shapely summit of Manaslu (8156m) now visible behind us, as well as Annapurna II ahead of us. Dharapani is close to the point where the Manaslu Circuit meets the Marsyangdi and we are likely to meet trekkers starting or finishing this classic trek.
Day 5:
Ride via tea-house stops and through fragrant pine forest to the regional centre of Chame (2710m).
Leaving Dharapani, we start out on sections of steeper and winding track, with dramatic, plunging waterfalls and a backdrop of spectacular mountains slowly unfolding around us. Passing through several villages, there’s plenty of opportunity to stop at welcoming tea houses, where we can try a glass of the locally-grown seabuckthorn juice (the berry is said to be packed with more vitamins or minerals then any other fruit). The trail becomes more gentle, as we ride through pine forest on the approach to the town of Chame (2710m) the administrative centre of the Manang District. Here, there are shops, hot springs, a bank and even an internet cafe - all nestling deep within the Annapurnas, overlooked by Annapurna II and its rumbling glaciers.
Day 6:
Bike up into a more open valley with Annapurna views. Pass through Braga en route to Manang (3540m).
The trail becomes less rocky today, as we climb on forest trails through a steep-sided section of the valley, crossing the Marsyangdi a couple of times. We will probably be accompanied at times by porters, carrying huge cargoes of wood on their backs for construction higher up the valley. Reaching a high plateau, the scenery is idyllic, as the forest gives way to a more open environment of sparse juniper and scrubby pine, with the delightful village of Bhratang and the impressive rock wall known as 'Heaven's Door'. Some good downhill riding brings us to Pisang, beyond which we follow a contouring trail to the timber and mud-brick homes of Braga, where one flat roof forms the terrace of the house above. This picturesque village with its ornate windows and fluttering prayer flags is one of the Nyesyang villages, with its own unique language. At Braga, we have opportunity to check out the 500 year old gompa (home to 160 half life-size statues of the Lord Buddha, before continuing on the trail to Manang (3540m). Prayer wheels at the entrance gate of the town, welcome us to the biggest settlement on the eastern side of the Annapurna circuit.
Day 7:
A day for rest and acclimatisation. Optional cycle or hike above Manang, or visit Braga Monastery.
We are now above 3000 metres and we must take care not to ascend too quickly. So, we have scheduled a day for rest and acclimatisation in the 'Tibetan' village of Manang. The Manangba living here have an affinity closer with Tibet than Nepal and have similar customs and features and practice a form of Tibetan Buddhism. There is plenty to see and do around Manang, which is the last sizeable village on this side of the pass. We can hike on the trail towards Tilicho Lake, back-track to Braga to have another look at its stunning monastery, or simply enjoy the facilities of Manang. There are superb views of Annapurnas II, III, IV and of Gangapurna from here. We spend a second night at our Manang lodge.
Day 8:
A mix of riding and pushing via a lunch stop at Churi Lattar to Letdar (4200m).
After an initial, short section of riding as we leave the village, the trail becomes narrow and rocky for a while and we are back to pushing and carrying to the top of the hill at Gunsang (3900m). With the Annapurna massif now behind us, there follows a fantastic, section of fast flowing trail set within an amphitheatre of sheer mountain magnificence. The towering Chulu peaks are now on our right hand side, as we continue, whooping and hollering to our lunch stop at the lodges of Churi Lattar (4000m). The ever-increasing altitude is playing its part now and , after lunch, we are back to pushing as we have a final climb up to Letdar, heading north-west up the Jarsang Khola, through scrubby juniper. There are great views of the Annapurnas and Tilicho Peak, as we make our overnight stop in a lodge at Letdar (4200m).
Day 9:
Bike and push or carry to Thorong Phedi. Take a break, then hike up to High Camp (4800m).
From Letdar it’s possible to ride most of the first couple of kilometres, and then it's a mix of riding, pushing and carrying as we drop down to the river and have a short but tough carry up to a viewpoint on the other side of the valley. There is spectacular scenery to accompany our efforts, as the Chulus start to unfold behind us and we traverse a fairly narrow trail to arrive at the lodges at Thorong Phedi (4450 m). We will stop for a long lunch here and relax, before we make the carry up to High Camp. The climb to high camp zig-zags its way up a loose rocky path and we will take every opportunity to stop, take a breather and admire the views - which more then make up for the exertion. As we pass through a cleft in the rocks, we will see the welcome sight of our lodge at High Camp just above us.
Day 10:
Cross the Thorong La (5416m). Push up to the pass, then ride most of a long descent to Muktinath (3800m).
Today is the big day, the crux of the trip, as we climb to cross the Thorong La (5416m). We make an early start, for the 3-hour push uphill to the pass. The route winds up on a good path, with the gradient gradually relenting as we get higher. As the dawn rises from Tibet, it lights the mountains all around us and a festive mass of prayer flags marks our arrival at the pass. As a fitting reward for our achievement, we have spectacular views of Dhaulagiri and Tukuche Peak, as we begin the thrilling 1650 metre descent to the barren vistas of Mustang and the Kali Gandaki way below. The downhill is on a mix of terrain including sections of technical singletrack and some pushing. Arriving in Muktinath (3800m), we have the feeling of being in a frontier town, set in a semi-desert landscape and with the mysterious, forbidden region of Mustang extending to the north. Muktinath is the site of a temple mentioned in the Hindu epic saga, the Mahabharata, and is a famous pilgrimage site.
Day 11:
Visit the temple in Muktinath, then bike down on a jeep road to Marpha (2760m) in the Kali Gandaki.
We have time for a look around the colourful temples and shrines of Muktinath, one of the holiest sites in Nepal, before descending into the Kali Gandaki, the world’s deepest gorge. Muktinath is now linked to Jomsom by a jeep road, but there are some optional detours and some sections of quite technical singletrack (parts of the former footpath between these settlements). Looking towards the north, we can see the dry brown and red hills of Upper Mustang, a region sometimes known as ‘Little Tibet’. Reaching Jomsom after around an hour and a half of riding, we are now entering Lower Mustang, the homeland of the Buddhist Thakali people. Jomsom has an STOL airstrip and this once small village has become an important regional headquarters. We continue southwards on a jeep road which follows the broad bed of the Kali Gandaki River. Set among apricot and apple orchards is the attractive stone village of Marpha (2670m) with narrow flag-stone streets and buildings typical of the local Thakali architecture. Marpha is a centre of Tibetan refugee resettlement and there are a number of interesting gompas on the hill above the village and splendid views of Tilicho Peak and Dhaulagiri. Spending the night in Marpha, gives us the opportunity to sample its famous apple pie.
Day 12:
Cycle south on a rugged section of jeep trail via Ghasa to Tatopani, famous for its hot springs.
Continuing down-valley, on a rough road, we are actually passing through the world's deepest gorge, between the 8000 metre summits of Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri. Although this is one of Nepal's most prosperous regions, this part of the route is surprisingly wild and scenically very varied. Heading south and downhill on a dirt road, there are many settlements and isolated lodges and tea-houses on today's ride. But, there are also open areas with impressive forest and expansive panoramas. We make steady time, stopping for soft drinks when we feel like it and admiring the mountain views. We pass through lots of friendly villages and notice a change in architectural style. There are increasing numbers of taller buildings with ornately carved woodwork, a testimony to the prosperity of this part of Nepal. We lose a lot of height, but this is a rugged section and the trail is very rough and wild in places. Spare a thought for the poor passengers on the bus, on this challenging jeep road. As we pass through Ghasa, we leave the last settlement of Mustang district and enter a more tropical climate. By the time we reach the cluster of lodges at Tatopani (1190m), a town famous for its hot springs, it is noticeably warmer.
Day 13:
Continue cycling as far as Beni, then transfer to Pokhara. Afternoon free to explore Lakeside.
Our last day of riding, as we continue to descend beside the Kali Gandaki, passing through several villages en route to Beni. Behind us is the classic view of Nilgiri South, its summit snows contrasting with the increasing green vegetation. Even though the distance may be short and we are mostly descending this is still a proper ride with the wild terrain and steep short ascents demanding respect. Arriving at the frenetic town of Beni, we finally reach tarmac and the end of our amazing journey. Here, we load the bikes into our transport and drive to Pokhara for some very well earned comfort, eating and drinking. After checking in at our hotel, we can enjoy some lakefront shopping and take it easy in one or other of the pleasant cafes, with reflected views of the Annapurnas and the 'Fish Tail' peak of Machhapuchhre. In the evening, we can justifiably wallow in the glory of our achievement and visit the town's famous bars to celebrate the completion of our epic ride around the Annapurna Circuit.
Day 14:
Fly to Kathmandu. Afternoon free to relax by the pool or to do some independent sightseeing.
In the morning, we transfer to the airport and board the flight back to Kathmandu. After checking in at the group hotel, there will be time for some independent exploration of the city. We will also need to repack our bikes (which have come back to Kathmandu by road) for the journey home. In the evening, we will head out to a suitable Thamel restaurant for a celebration dinner.
Day 15:
Departure day. Transfers to Kathmandu Airport are provided.
Comments
Post a Comment